Traditional Temazcal: Sweatin’ with the Oldies in Oaxaca

OAXACA DE JUAREZ, OAXACA - As El Gringo's taxi rolled into the dirt road, ramshackle neighborhood of Privada Villa Alta on the outskirts of Oaxaca city, I wondered if the driver knew where he was going. Having just been to Los Cabos a couple of months ago, this looked like the last place one would find a spa...albeit a traditional Oaxacan temazcal which has been used by indigenous peoples for over a thousand years as a method of healing and purification.

Privada Villa Alta, Oaxaca, Mexico The temazcal is a small, domed room which fills with scented steam as you pour herb-infused water on the lava rocks.

Privada Villa Alta, Oaxaca, Mexico

This dirt road looks like the last place you’d find a spa, but Mexico is full of surprises!

Privada Villa Alta, Oaxaca, Mexico

This small residence houses Antonieta Bautista Cruz’s traditional Temazcal.

After stopping at a tienda and asking several people in the colonia directions to TOHIL Temazcal (“Mexican Mapquest” once again in operation), we finally pulled up to a non discreet brick dwelling – scattering a group of stray chickens – where I was greeted by owner and proud Chatino (one of nearly 30 indigenous peoples of Oaxaca), Antonieta Bautista Cruz. Antonieta is a traditional healer and would be attending to my temazcal and massage afterward.

Privada Villa Alta, Oaxaca, Mexico

Antonieta Bautista Cruz is a traditional healer and owner of this temazcal in the Privada Villa Alta colonia in Oaxaca.

The name temazcal comes form the Nahuatl for “temaz”, or steam, and “calli”, the word for house. It’s said to have curative properties, healing the mind, body and soul. It was originally used to heal Aztec warriors wounded in battle and to promote childbirth in women.

Antonieta led El Gringo to the shower room and instructed me to strip down, giving me a towel to wrap myself in for the sake of modesty (of which El Gringo has some, but not much). I was then led to the room that housed a small door leading into the temazcal. I felt a bit like Alice in Wonderland as I crouched my 6’4″ frame low and entered the room backward as directed by Antonieta (I wondered if entering backward was symbolic somehow, or just the best/easiest way to get my gigante self through the door).

Privada Villa Alta, Oaxaca, Mexico

The massage room. The small door is the entrance to the temazcal.

Entering the dark, small, brick domed room with El Gringo, Antonieta opened a small hatch at the foot of the room (symbolic, she told me, of the womb), revealing a stove of hot lava rocks. She poured a cupful of herb-infused water onto the rocks, releasing an initial blast of scented steam. She then instructed me to lie down to acclimate to the environment for a few minutes and left the temazcal. Five minutes later, I wast instructed to rub my face, hands and chest with a bowl of cut aloe from her garden and add more water to the rocks to the point where I felt comfortable.

Traditional music of flutes, drums and ancient chanting were piped in to add to the experience. As I lay in the temazcal enjoying the curative properties of the steam, I closed my eyes and let my mind relax, my thoughts evaporating with the vapor. Occasionally, I sat up to toss a few more cups of water on the rocks, to the point where I built up a layer of sweat on my entire body, but wasn’t quite dripping wet.

Privada Villa Alta, Oaxaca, Mexico

The temazcal is a small, domed room which fills with scented steam as you pour herb-infused water on the lava rocks.

After forty minutes, I was relaxed to the point of near sleep when Antonieta gently rapped on the door of the temazcal, asking if I was ready to emerge. I asked for five more minutes to return to reality and then exited the temazacal. The candles in the room seemed to give off a spectral aura, and Antonieta herself glowed with a golden light. Admittedly, this could have been the effect of the steam on my contact lenses, but the vision made quite the impression on your Gringo!

Antonieta then administered an hour long full body massage, sparing not an iota of her strength. This little indigenous woman is MUCH stronger than she looks, and my body was sore for the rest of the day (though now, two days later, I feel terrific!).

After the massage, Antonieta permitted me to photograph her temazcal for the blog, and called me a taxi. As I stood outside chatting with her and her wonderful son, she pointed out the nearby mountain peaks where the Zapotec ruins of Monte Alban reside (we had visited the ruins two days previous, look for reporting soon). As I slipped into my cab and waved goodbye, I reflected on my experience and eased back into the passenger seat. Refreshed. Relaxed. Reborn.

Your Gringo in Mexico,

TOHIL Temazcal is open by appointment from 9AM – 9PM 365 days a year. To make an appointment, call Tel. 01 (951) 133 0576, Cell 044 951 158 3023, or email: Website for more information is now available at

About W. Scott Koenig (103 Articles)
San Diego-based lifestyle writer W. Scott Koenig is founder of the blog, author of the book 7 Days in The Valle: Baja California’s Wine Country Cuisine and writes columns for DiningOut San Diego Magazine, and Scott is also the Food Expert for Baja California at (formerly FoodieHub), an international culinary site curated by over 275 experts.

11 Comments on Traditional Temazcal: Sweatin’ with the Oldies in Oaxaca

  1. Thanks Gringo, I’m planning to go next month and definitely I will visit this place ❤️


  2. Thank you for this post. I learned about this treatment while in Oaxaca and was trying find an authentic place to get it. I was a bit nervous because I only speak limited Spanish and never received temazcal or sweat lodge. Everything end up well and i enjoyed it, felt much more relaxed and calm inside. Would recommend. Next time i will be much more generous with water i pour on the rocks lol.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Elena Trujillo // January 15, 2017 at 5:09 AM // Reply

      My family of 5 and I decided to experience the Temazcal after we read the Gringo article. In our trip from Phoenix, AZ to Oaxaca. As soon as we arrived to Antonieta Bautista place I had the connection with her, she is an amazing human being really interested to give you the best sacred ritual with sounds, scents and appreciation of this sacred gift, It was not just physically, but emotionally, mentally and spiritually, She said if we approach it with humility and gratitude the Temazcal indeed, transforms, frees, heals, re-connects us. Very interesting, After the Temazcal, we took a cold shower and Monica, Marcela and Antonieta gave us an exquisite massage. You leave feeling just as good outside, as you do inside, She told us to let all of our emotions, bad energy, heaviness, and fears out with the steam, smoke, music, and vapors once the doorway is uncovered.. Antonieta Bautista is a lovely guider to this raditional Mexican sweat bath. She told us this is a return to our mother’s womb. She aims to cure physical and spiritual ills by separating us from the outside world so we can reconnect with our inner self. Now this is an experience I would love to have it again, Elena Trujillo

      Liked by 1 person

  3. Trevor Dickinson // April 29, 2015 at 10:48 AM // Reply

    Hi Antonieta,
    How much do you charge for a massage and how much does a taxi cost to get ys to your place. We wish to see you today.
    Kind Regards, Trevor


  4. i would love to try this! do you have her contact information? Thank you for the great post!


  5. Excelent Scott, I will be there sometime! When I visited Oaxaca couldn´t visit one. Thanks for the article.


    • Angela, you would really enjoy it…very relaxing and transporting for sure!

      I hope you had a great Christmas and New Year! I will look you up the next time I’m down in Tijuana. We are overdue for a nice lunch 🙂



  6. Awesome. Definitely on my bucket list.


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