Valle de Guadalupe: Of Wine and Russians in Baja California
The birth of our son in 2008 put a temporary halt to our travels due south and we were overdue for a trip to neighboring Baja California. Our 15th wedding anniversary was approaching, so we took the opportunity to get back to some of our former stomping grounds. The Las Rocas Resort (an old favorite of ours) was offering a special in an attempt to lure visitors back that we just couldn’t pass up…$250 for 2 nights in an ocean view room, a lobster feast in Puerto Nuevo, and a full day of touring around Ensenada’s wine country, the Valle de Guadalupe.
When we arrived, Las Rocas hadn’t changed too much in the five years since we last visited. The grounds perhaps were a touch more unruly, and one of the two jacuzzis was shut off and blockaded, but the staff were still friendly, the view of the Pacific Ocean from our balcony amazing and we settled quickly into our typical Baja state of easy relaxation.
Our Valle de Guadalupe winery tour guide Ferndando arrived promptly the next morning at 10AM in front of Las Rocas to pick us up, along with our fellow guests — a family of self-proclaimed “Chilangos” (Mexicans who live in Mexico City, or “El De-effe” as I knowingly and amusingly intoned to them). The family consisted of three sisters and their husbands, including “Pepe Bimbo”, a very affable guy who is an executive at the multinational Bimbo food empire based in Mexico, thus earning his nickname. Visitors from Mexico City, as well as other populated Mexican mainland areas, seem to be filling the Baja tourism gap that we in the US left over the past decade. Fernando stated that his tours used to be 80% US and 20% Mexican visitors, but now has flipped to 80% Mexican and 20% US. We were happy to be part of the 20%.
We’ve had Valle de Guadalupe wines all over Mexico in the past. The region supplies most of Mexico’s wine as well as exports to other countries, the US being a noted exclusion due to high tariffs attached to importing. I’d made a brief stopover with friends on the way back from San Felipe at Viña de Liceaga earlier in the year, and Fernando’s tour would take us to three very different wineries: Baron Balche, a very small boutique winery complete with a tasting cave, L.A. Cetto, Mexico’s largest wine producer and the largest vineyard in Valle de Guadalupe, and La Hacienda Restaurant and Winery, a beautiful spot with historic structures, sprawling gardens and an array of unusual fruit-flavored wines (mango, guava, etc.).
The area was established as a wine and agricultural region after an unsuccessful founding of the valley by Jesuit missionaries from 1834-1836 (they were chased out and their mission destroyed by local Amerindians). In 1905, 105 Russian families fleeing religious persecution in czarist Russia purchased 13,000 acres from the Mexican government and began growing grapes and wheat as well as keeping bees and raising geese. In 1938, Mexican president Cardenas seized all foreign-owned lands, including that owned by the Russians. Ultimately, Mexican “squatters” moved in to take over the valley and it’s vineyards, which are owned largely by Mexican interests to this day. Of the original 105 families only 4 of pure Russian lineage remain and some of their original Russian-style homes still stand.
Our first stop was at one of these Russian homes, which has been turned into a Museum, restaurant and bakery. We enjoyed goat empenadas, fresh-baked bread (Pan Ruso), honey and cheese and toured the small home which houses the actual artifacts, tools and artwork used by one of the early Russian settler families. Eerily, one of the young Russian girls in the restaurant bore a STRIKING resemblance to a painting of an early settler in the museum. We found out that she was the great, great granddaughter of the woman in the painting.
Our first winery was Baron Balche, a small, boutique winery. We winded up a dirt road in the conversion van and were greeted lazily (in a great way) by several elderly gentlemen enjoying a glass of afternoon wine in the shade of the vineyard’s front porch. We proceeded into the winery and down a flight of stairs to the subterranean wine cave…which houses the vineyard’s barrels as well as their tasting room. Sampling several excellent wines, Fernando had let me know that one of their bottles was $150, their top of the line. Winking, he conspiratorially handed me a glass of said wine as the owner passed him another. It’s good to have connections. Salud Fernando!
Our next stop was L.A. Cetto, Mexico’s largest wine-producing vineyard. After conferring with a few of the gate guards, Fernando was waved through the parking lot to a long dusty road that led straight up the vineyard hillside to a custom bullfighting ring and huge (concert-size) entertainment patio. The view from the patio was amazing, affording a vista of the entire Valle de Guadalupe to the south.
We drove back to the main visitor’s area, parked and were led on a path that winded beneath a large and amazing arbor overflowing with vines and ripening grapes above our heads to the vineyard’s vast tasting room. Dozens of mostly Mexican families and visitors were enjoying this sunny Saturday at L.A. Cetto. Hundreds of bottles of wine ranging from very inexpensive to premium line the walls, and tasters stand casually around small tables as they are poured samples from one of L.A. Cetto’s myriad, friendly and helpful staff.
We ended the day at the La Hacienda Restaurant and Winery, where after enjoying their fruity mango, guava and pomegranate wines, we wandered around the sprawling property through lush gardens scattered with amazing artwork, crumbling statuary and bird cages. We thanked the friendly owners and staff and headed back to Las Rocas and our lobster feast in Puerto Nuevo (amazing, BTW. Although the lobster is not typically from the region now, we were served two each with full sides of tortillas, rice and beans with a Pacific view).
Las Rocas is still running the $250 deal at last check and your Gringo plans on returning with more of his family soon. You should too!
Your Gringo in Mexico,
I’m curious how much your wine tour guide, Fernando, costs for the day? I imagine it’s a per person rate? How did you get in touch with him? Thanks in advance!
Fernando’s tour was part of a $250/total package at Las Rocas Hotel that also included two nights lodging and a Lobster Dinner in Puerto Nuevo (GREAT deal. They may still have it going on). I did contact Fernando on a separate occasion regarding a private tour for which he quoted $45/person, which seemed like an amazing price given his connections throughout the Valle de Guadalupe. If you want to get in touch with him, his email address is: email@example.com. If you hook up with him, please tell him A Gringo In Mexico said “HOLA!”.
Thanks for the reply. $250 for 2 nights, lobster dinner AND wine tour is an amazing deal! I’ll definitely have to look into it. Thanks again.
Taking your advice and just booked your recommended deal at Las Rocas Resort & Spa to celebrate a big birthday & enjoy the wine tour that you so wonderfully illustrated in your article. Happy to have found gringo in mexico : > ) Muchos Gracias …
Gracias Caliyat! I think you will enjoy Las Rocas, as well as the wine tour. If your driver/tour guide is Fernando, please tell him A Gringo In Mexico says “HOLA!”.
Just found you as I research where to retire/refire from high cost of living in southern CA. yet still be close to work & children & grandchildren…Everyone thinks we are poco loco to look into the real Mexican small town (Tecate) area so it was good to find some encouraging voices.
Read Catherine Stribling’s quick visit to the wine region via Tecate, then was happy to find your work. Appreciating & enjoying your passion for the area. Thanks for your insights which are so helpful as we plan our own exploratory trip from Tecate through the Ruta de Vino.
Never stop exploring.
Thanks for your feedback! Always great to get comments from north of the border on our adventures 🙂
Personally, I could visualize living in Tecate. It is small, friendly, clean, and has some great food from the street on up to the top of the hill at Asao. And did I mention they make a great beer?
Thanks again and let me know if you end up landing in Tecate…sounds like a GREAT adventure and I don’t think you’re poco loco at all!
Fantastic piece! That Pinot Noir I bought at L.A. Cetto on our way back from San Felipe was amazing. Fantastic hospitality too. Jealous of your deep dive in the valley!